A Trip to Chalky Mount

Lately, I’ve been very picky about souvenirs.

Admittedly, I can never resist collecting touristy postcards. I mean, there’s something so charming and nostalgic about postcards, right? However, when it comes to things like your typical mug or magnet or T-shirt, it’s not enough anymore. I find myself gravitating towards items with more sentiment and authenticity. This can be really challenging, especially in places geared towards tourism. Many times, convenience takes precedence over authenticity when it comes to mementos and memorable experiences.

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A blackbelly sheep taking in the views atop Chalky Mount.

Perhaps that’s what made a visit to Chalky Mount in Saint Andrew seem so necessary during my visit to Barbados. I had heard a little bit about Chalky Mount from family members and other Bajans. Chalky Mount, as the name implies, is an area of higher elevation in Barbados. It is part of a rugged set of hills where there are plentiful deposits of clay. This clay lends itself to pottery-making, a tradition that goes back generations in this particular village. Thus, the pottery produced here is truly unique and genuinely Bajan. The materials and those who work it are Bajan to the core.

Bumpy, winding roads led us to the quiet village atop the hill. If not for the informational signs indicating this was an important cultural site, I wouldn’t have known I was in the right place. There were traces of Chalky Mount’s pottery culture but not a clear indication of where one could really delve into it. My family slowly drove along until we were waved down by none other than John Springer. John Springer is a master potter and one of the few artists still practicing this craft.

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John Springer’s workspace where he explained and demonstrated the process of making a flower pot.

John welcomed us into his workspace where he shared the significance of Chalky Mount as well as his own path as a traditional craftsman. Speaking with John and seeing him at work was a melancholy experience. On the one hand, it was invaluable to connect with someone who’s been practicing this great craft for over four decades. The way he easily conjured up a flower pot in minutes spoke to his mastery of the craft. However, this visit also revealed that pottery at Chalky Mount is a dying art.

John noted that where there used to be about a dozen families creating pottery, there are now only a handful of craftsmen carrying on the tradition. Where there were once efforts to bring Chalky Mount potteries to the forefront of Bajan culture – and beyond – there is a village that continues to fade from the map. In an economy focused on tourism, there’s such a delicate balance between catering to tourists and preserving culture. Unfortunately, Chalky Mount seems like a hidden gem that has fallen to the wayside.

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The car kiln that John Springer uses for firing pottery.

As for my search for authentic keepsakes, John Springer hit the nail on the head. He noted that tourists often leave the island with souvenirs that say ‘made in Barbados’ on one side and ‘made in China’ on the other. Guilty as I am on this front, I couldn’t agree more. This is why what’s happening at Chalky Mount gets me so much. The potteries at Chalky Mount are genuine, real, and deeply rooted in Barbados’ history but they are being forgotten.

When we departed Chalky Mount, we took with us some pieces of pottery purchased from John Springer. On the way home, we wrestled with the question of how we would safely pack these precious mementos on the journey back to the States. We also pondered some heavier questions: what will become of the Chalky Mount potteries in another generation? Along with the rest of what Barbados has to offer, is this not worth preserving too?

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A mug and gravy dish made by John Springer using local clay and non-toxic glazes.

At this point, I think it’ll go without saying that I highly recommend making the trip to Chalky Mount if you’re in Barbados. Locals are always happy to guide you along. Whether you’re looking for a memorable keepsake or a great memory, connecting with Chalky Mount and its history is well-worth the visit.

Thoughts?