Arts, Blog, Travel

Awestruck in Andalucía: Alhambra by Day

Have you ever had really high expectations of something, only to be disappointed when you finally experience that thing you’ve been waiting for?

Rest assured, that is not the case with Andalucía. For the longest time, visiting Andalucía was at the top of my bucket list. Specifically, I had dreamed of visiting the Alhambra for as long as I could remember. Even as I type this entry I’m feeling all sorts of nostalgia for the incredible region that is al-Andalus. Last year, my dream finally came true. My father, best friend and I embarked on a whirlwind tour of three European countries with Spain as our final destination. Best for last? Absolutely. Our stopover in Spain was the icing on the cake.

Málaga, a beautiful coastal city in the south of Spain, was our entry point into Spain. We arrived in winter which tends to be the quieter time of year. The weather is still pleasant, just make sure to pack layers.

From Málaga, we drove to Granada first thing the next morning for our 9:30am ticket slot for entering the Alhambra’s Nasrid Palaces. I highly recommend reserving your tickets well in advance. As I hope to show in this entry, the Alhambra is an incredible experience and it shouldn’t be an experience left to chance! (I’ve included informational links throughout this entry and advice for visiting the Alhambra at the end.)

Here are some highlights from the Alhambra during the day:

One of the towers of the Alhambra overlooking Granada. This was a view we got to see every day of our stay when walking into town. The halo-like effect that the sun produced seemed befitting of the magnificent complex.

When entering the Alhambra, one is greeted by beautifully manicured grounds and an array of centuries-old buildings. Part of the Alhambra’s appeal is in the way it seamlessly blends nature and architecture in ways that captivate the senses. From the fruit trees and perfect shrubbery to the curated vistas and water features, the complex is a sensory feast.

A vista from inside the Alhambra. In the morning, some parts of the town were still shrouded in an ethereal mist.

After passing through El Mexuar and the Oratory, our first stop in the Nasrid Palaces was the facade of the Comares Palace. The Nasrid Palaces are a series of palaces built over many years by the Muslim rulers of the region. While it can be hard to tell where one ends and the other begins, every turn is an alluring display of Moorish splendor.

The Comares Palace is a blend of additions started by Yusuf I and continued by his son Muhammad V. It was Muhammad V who had the elaborate facade built. This was also where the viral video of a Muslim man reciting the athaan took place. It’s easy to see how a place like the Nasrid Palaces would compel one to praise their lord–even the walls sing praises!

The facade of the Comares Palace. Colorful mosaics accent the doorways while elaborately carved stucco adorns the walls.
Detail of stucco decoration on the walls of the palaces. The Arabic in the star-shaped medallions reads, “و لا غالب إلا الله” which translates to “There is no victor but God.” This inscription appears repeatedly throughout  Alhambra.

This section of the Nasrid Palaces led to the Court of the Myrtles. The courtyard features a long pool that perfectly mirrors its surroundings.

At the Court of the Myrtles the water’s reflection creates a stunning copy of the already-stunning palace.

After passing through a couple more sections, including the Room of the Ship and Chamber of the Ambassadors, we arrived at the famed Court of the Lions. This was the area I had most looked forward to seeing. All of the photographs and expectations had led up to this!

The Court of Lions was incredible in its silent, tranquil pride (pun intended). Even the scaffolding at one end of the courtyard, part of ongoing restoration and preservation efforts, couldn’t detract from court’s beauty. The court is named for its fountain: a water basin flanked by marble lions. My first impression: the fountain was actually larger than I was expecting it to be, and much more magnificent. Each lion is slightly different than the one next to it. But all bear the marks of precise, thoughtful craftsmanship from the locks of mane to the strands of hair on the tail.

The fountain stands at the center of the courtyard. It makes for an attractive focal point.

Next up was the Hall of the Abencerrages. This room was ethereal. Like many other parts of the Alhambra I stared for a while at a section of the room. Then, I moved on to another section of the room, thinking I had absorbed all the previous space had to offer. I would look back again, just to make sure I hadn’t missed anything, only to realize there was a whole set of details I didn’t appreciate yet. This back-and-forth went on over and over again. When it came to rooms like this one, I didn’t want to leave. Just like trying to count the stars in the night sky, I came to accept that there was (pleasantly frustrating) beauty in the seemingly endless ceiling of the Hall of the Abencerrages.

However, if I thought the Hall of Abencerrages was ethereal and stunning, what words could I possibly use to do justice to the Hall of the Two Sisters? Put it this way: if there’s one thing I envy about the Nasrid sultans, it’s that this was home. When all was going wrong (or right) outside the citadel’s wall’s, this was the world they could escape to.

The Hall of Abencerrages features extensive muqarnas and stalactite-style ornamentation. It creates an optical illusion that makes the room seem much taller than it actually is. The same effect is present in the Hall of the Two Sisters.
Stunning ceiling in the Hall of the Two Sisters.

Arguably the climax of the Nasrid Palaces, we took our time admiring the amazing ceiling of the Hall of the Two Sisters. From there, we enjoyed garden views from the Court of the Vestibule (also known as the Observation Point of Daraxa).

View of the garden courtyard from the Court of the Vestibule.
View of the Court of the Vestibule (top center windows) from the garden level. This area is known as the Court of the Lindaraja.

The final highlight of our walkthrough was the Partal. The Partal also features a reflection pool that accentuates the architecture around it. The portico and Tower of the Ladies are the focus of this area. The portico is a breath of fresh air where one can get great views of the Alhambra’s grounds and the Andalucian hills.

Stopping to enjoy the scenery around the Partal.

Needless to say, there’s a lot to the Alhambra and I’ve barely scratched the surface. The Generalife is grand, the Alcazaba’s views are incredible, and I could go on and on. It’s a place you could learn all about but not truly understand until you see it for yourself. Here are some tips on making it happen:

Visiting the Alhambra

  • Buy your tickets well in advance. I recommend the ‘Alhambra General’ ticket. This gets you access to the Alcazaba, Generalife, and Nasrid Palaces during daytime hours. You’ll need to reserve a specific time slot for entry into the Nasrid Palaces. Morning slots are nice because you can get through the palaces and then have free reign to explore the rest of the Alhambra at your own pace.
    • I’ve heard the ‘Dobla de Oro General’ ticket is a great deal as it gives you the opportunity to see other heritage sites in Granada in addition to the Alhambra.
  • If possible, book a night trip too. I wasn’t sure when (or if) I’d get the opportunity to see the Alhambra again so I booked night tickets in addition to our day ones. I felt the night visit was just as magical as the daytime visit. It was a great opportunity to see the Alhambra in a whole new light (pun intended).
  • Be on time – or, better yet, be early! This is especially important in the busy summer season. I visited in winter which was nice because the crowds weren’t as bad. But even then, we cut it a bit close when arriving at our assigned time for the palaces.
    • From the entrance pavilion, it’ll take around 15 minutes to walk to the entry point for the palaces.
  • Wear comfortable shoes and clothing. You’ll want to take your time for this one. The Alhambra is a fairly large complex so break out those comfy kicks. For winter visits, it is chilly so I’d recommend dressing in layers.
  • Check out the gift shop. There are a lot of unique souvenirs (I’m a sucker for souvenirs). One of my regrets from this visit was passing up on a stuffed animal lion made to look like the ones on the Fountain of Lions.
  • Don’t feel the need to book a tour. Normally, I love guided tours because I tend to learn a lot more (and I like being able to ask questions in real time). In this case, however, I preferred exploring and wandering at my own pace. I guess this is more of my own thoughts as opposed to a strong recommendation for or against a guided tour.
  • Eat a good breakfast and pack a snack or two. I didn’t see many options food in the complex. If you plan to make the most of the day there, it’s worth having some refreshments to keep you going.
  • Relax and be in the moment! There’s nothing like the Alhambra.

Thoughts?